Via - the Way

In front of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre

Herod's Gate

We left the hotel at 5 am and headed to Herold's Gate in the Old City. Lights had been strung for Ramadan, which will begin on Monday. As we entered, we encountered many Muslims leaving the city from morning prayers at Al-Aqsa Mosque. 

Cross embedded in the Wall on the Via

We started the stations of the cross, or the Via Dolorosa, in the alley near where the Antonia Fortress was located in the time of Jesus. We wove our way from station to station, arriving at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre as various masses were being said. We saw the places where Jesus was crucified, buried and eventually resurrected.

The stairway to Calvary

Yummy!

Our breakfast in the church courtyard was provided by nearby street vendors. We brought too much food and so we hosted a spontaneous breakfast for the various tour guides who happened by. We learned that a Jerusalem donut tastes good with some zaatar and falafel inside!

The Syrian Priest who hosted us

We headed off to the Syrian Orthodox Church of St. Mark. This church is said to have been erected on the site where St. Mark's family lived. Some speculate that the last supper was hosted in this location. This group of believers still worships in Aramaic, the mother tongue of Jesus.

We returned to Bethlehem and visited the Shepherds Field, where the angels appeared and announced Jesus' birth. As we sang "gloria . . . in excelsis deo." we could imagine the angel choir singing with us.

Next we were off to the the Church of the Nativity, which is next door to our hotel. Like the tomb at the Church Holy Sepulchre, the lines were dreadfully long and we opted for a quick tour of the entire grounds instead.


From death to birth, we saw it all today. Or so we thought.

After a free afternoon, we gathered for dinner at Cheers, a restaurant owned by our guide Rami. Karaoke ensued as did some dancing. Let me just say that what happens at Cheers, stays at Cheers. Like at the checkpoints, there is no filming!

Berkeley Folks - Laurie & Chuck and Cherie & Don

Easter - this time Russian style

The morning didn't start off too well.  We left the hotel early so that we could avoid the crowds. Our first stop was supposed to be the lovely village of Ein Karem, the birthplace of John the Baptist and the site where Mary and Elisabeth encourage one another when each was pregnant. Our plans went awry when all the roads to the village were closed for some type of marathon.

One of the pilgrimage principles is to see every "roadblock" as s opportunity. So instead of grumbling, we made our way to the Russian Orthodox Church instead.

Paige with a bum foot

The church sits at the top of a steep mountain, which means lots of stairs to get to the top. Did I mention that Paige broke her foot the day before in Jericho?  Between a wheelchair and crutches, as well as the helping hand of her fellow travelers, we made our way up to the top of the church. Having never been there before, all I kept thinking was that I hope it will be worth it.

My expectations were exceeded on every level.

Russian Orthodox Church 

We entered the church to find a service already underway. There were nuns and priests chanting and praying and carrying all manor of religious objects. Turns out we had stumbled into the mass of the resurrection. This is now our third Easter celebration!  Mindful that this was their worship service, we refrained from taking photos of this glorious church until the service was over.

Easter Mass

The spirit of worship lingered as we made our way into the old city of Jerusalem. The Church of St. Anne is situated next to the old Sheep's Gate were the healing pool of Bethsaida is located. We read the story of the man who was healed by Jesus. His haunting question is a good one for us to ponder,"Do you want to be made well?"

As we stopped into the Crusader church, we were treated to Russian music again. Pilgrims come to sing in this beautiful church. After the Russian group, we heard signing in another language. It was then our turn to lift up our voices in praise. "Alleluia . . . Lord we love you . . . Christ our savior."

Praying at the Wall

Our hearts full, we stopped at the Western Wall for prayer. Tari brought prayers from the confirmation class in Cincinnati to put in the wall. Others had prayers of their own as well as prayers from friends. The Jews believe the presence of God is in these stones. While we believe God is everywhere, it is understandable why people find this place a sacred space. So many millions of prayers have been said here.

At the Western Wall

Out next stop was the Church of Peter at Gallicantu.  This is where Jesus was questioned, imprisoned, and likely tortured. We visited the courtyard of the high priest where Peter denied Jesus three times.

Beth and Jenny at Gallicantu

After lunch, the group toured the "Walled Off Hotel" and the Separation Wall.

Banksy's Walled Off Hotel 

The day ended with a surprise.  We were invited to eat dinner with local Palestinian families. More on that tomorrow.

Rivers in the Desert

Behold, I am doing a new thing; now it springs forth, do you not perceive it? 

I will make a way in the wilderness and rivers in the desert. 

 Isaiah 43:19

Wadi Qelt in the Jordanian Wilderness

Early morning for many of us starts with the rising of the sun. That means folks are up and awake well before 5 am. Most don't complain but it does seem a bit unnatural and unexpected to our later risers.

The unexpected challenges perceptions and perspectives here. The best cathedral we have seen yet? The Jordan Wilderness, where life seems sparse and limited, was a spectacular sanctuary of the sacred. Prayer overlooking the Monastery of Saint George awakened dormant senses and sensitivities to the Holy.  

Look who has gone native!

We were inspired by the knowledge that this was the setting for Psalm 23's Valley of the Shadow of Death. Watching the shepherds on distant hills, we understood how rare green pastures are in these parts and how dependent sheep must be on a good shepherd.  

With Jerusalem now in our sites, you could feel the energy rising. What would we encounter in the city set upon a hill?

We started our tour with a visit to Pater Noster, the church that commemorates the ancient camping spot for pilgrims that flooded into the old city during the three Jewish festivals. Throughout the grounds are depictions of the Lord's prayer in nearly 200 languages. It seems like there were nearly that many languages spoken as we toured the church. One group that captured our interest was a group of pilgrims from Itrea. Despite their wizened appearance, they sang with deep joy.

Etrian Worshippers

As we then made our way down the Mt. of Olives, the old city of Jerusalem came into full view. With views of the Dome of the rock, the ancient city stones and walls, we were captivated descriptions of Jesus triumphal entry. At the start of many of the festivals, it seems it was not unusual for a person to claim to be the Messiah. The locals would say, "Hey, why not?  He could be the one!" and treated the self-proclaimed messiah to a parade. This might explain why the crowds turned so quickly on Jesus as the week unfolded. 

We entered a private part of the Gethsemane Garden and celebrated communion together. Although we have no evidence that Christ prayed in that same spot, we know it was somewhere nearby. Christ is the bread of life. Christ is the cup of salvation. We sensed the power and presence of his spirit here. 

As we then moved into the more public part of the Garden of Gethsemane, the gnarled trees stood as witnesses to what transpired here over 2,000 years ago.  As creation mourned the death of Christ, I couldn't help but wonder what joy they sensed at his resurrection. 

The Church of the Agony provided that sense of what that dark night of the soul must have been like for Jesus. Weeping and pleading. Alone and abandoned. What more can one say.  

After another delicious Palestinian-style lunch in East Jerusalem, we headed to Bethlehem, our home base for the next few days. We walked through the checkpoint, wandered through the marketplace, and drank refreshing lemonade and mint at a Starbuck knock-off where Debbie knows the owner. 

Masada, Qumran and Dead Sea

Gathered at Masada

 After our time at the baptism site where John the Baptist ministered to pilgrims not unlike ourselves, we headed to Masada. This desert palace of Herod's is a magnificent example of his architectural genius as well as his hubris.  Situated on top of what appears to be an inaccessible mesa, Herod built not one but two palaces!  Filled with everything one might need in case of a revolt, there was a swimming pool about the double the size of an olympic pool, 29 separate food storage rooms stocked with the finest fare available, a throne room, a garrison, and elaborate Roman baths.  The kicker is that Harod never lived here!

Qumran

As we drove back towards Jericho, we could appreciate the haunting beauty of the Dead Sea and the Judean Wilderness.  There seems to be few signs of life.  Not only was it unbelievable that Herod built his magnificent, unused palace here but a wonder that a religious community of Jewish men would have chosen this barren land to as a place to live. 

Nestled near some ragged, jagged cliffs, Qumran was such a surprise.   The ruins of the community that gave us the Dead Sea Scrolls reminded us that following God has always involved the dedication of the whole minds, soul, and spirit. 

Dead Sea Scrolls

The Essene community was all about purity of motive, the diligence of study, and the practice of prayer.  The scrolls were the product of their desire to be the true remnant of faith when the Messiah came.  They believed they could hasten his coming by following the law and ridding themselves of sin.  Some speculate that John the Baptist was part of this community for a time, while other say that Jesus was an Essene. 

Are we really floating?

From Qumran, we headed to the beach and many took a "dip" into the Dead Sea.  Floating is really all you can do.  Rubbing the dead sea mud on your body is supposed to make you look younger! 

Bill and Sook look younger!

From the living water of the Jordan to the lifeless Dead Sea, it was quite the day.

Unexpected Strangers

Over the past few days, we have been talking about the radical inclusion of Christ's teaching.  From the vantage point of the first century, Jesus acted and taught outside the standard religious ways of thinking.  He regularly visited and healed in pagan places.  He responded graciously to soldiers and outcasts.

Carlos and Hector

Because our worship has taken place in public places, someone asked if we would refuse to serve communion to a stranger if they asked.  Following the lead of Christ, I said we would never turn anyone away.

Even so, I was unprepared when we were renewing baptismal vows at the Jordan River and a strange man got in line for a blessing.  Carlos look at me with such longing that I couldn't possibly refuse.  I turned to his son, Hector, who was standing nearby and asked if he too wanted a blessing. They spoke no English and I no Spanish but somehow we figured out a way to communicate the universal love of God as the water was poured over their heads.  There were tears in all our eyes as I made the Catholic sign of the cross which they repeated.  Soon after, someone who I can only assume was Carlos' wife, a women appeared and all she could say was, "gracious."  She too received the blessing of God's love.

For each of us, we long to hear God's words of love:  "You are my beloved."  Standing in the river on that early Wednesday morning, I was moved and honored to speak those words of love on God's behalf to those in our group.  But somehow, I only felt God saying them back to me when God gave me the gift of three unexpected strangers.  I heard, "You too are my beloved.  In you I am well pleased!"

River Jordan Baptism Site

West Bank Bound

Outside the church in Burqin, near Jenin

Today, we ventured into the West Bank for the first time. We wove our way through rolling hills, extensive farm land, and olive tree forests before finally landing at a beautiful stone church.

St. George Church of the Ten Lepers

The Church of the Ten Lepers is situated in a middle of the predominantly Muslim town of Burqin. It is shaped out of the cave that, in Jesus' day, served as the quarantined living quarters for those which various skin diseases. The iconostasis is one-of-a-kind and is the only one made of stone in the world. 

Secret Place of Worship

Graffiti

While the church is considered one of the oldest in Christendom, recent renovations uncovered a cistern under the church where early Christians went for prayer and worship to avoid persecution from the Romans. Paige made her way down the ladder and spied the graffiti on the walls, some modern and some ancient.

This small Christian community boasts 62 members in a village of over 7,000. Their prayer is maintain a strong Christian witness.  We were moved by their faithfulness to Christ.

Next stop was Sebastia, where we saw the largely unexcavated ruins of the ancient city of Sebaste. Below the top layer of Roman ruins were the remains of the palace of Jezebel and Ahab. As you can see, the wildflowers were stunning!  

Translation: 
"The one who believes in me will live,
even though they die." 

Around the corner was the place where it John the Baptist was beheaded and buried. 

We had one of our best lunches to date at the restaurant owned by Mahmood, a Palestinian, who was educated at the University of Alabama. The food was prepared in the traditional family way and it was delicious.

Makloubi - upside down

first course

Jacob's Well in Nablus

We then motored to Nablus, the city where Jacob’s Well is situated. We read the story of the Samaritan woman whom Jesus asked for a drink of water. Goosebumps and tears - we got to drink from that same source of water where Jesus proclaimed, “Everyone who drinks this water will be thirsty again, but whoever drinks the water I give them will never thirst. Indeed, the water I give them will become in them a spring of water welling up to eternal life.” (John 4:13)

Father Justinus

The church is all the more impressive when we learned that the Orthodox priest who serves there built the church from ruins. He is responsible for all the modern icons and mosaics that adorn the church. Father Justinus is a treasure and it was wonderful to meet him.

Our next stop was Taybeh, the only Christian village in the West Bank. We sampled bear at the local brewery there and heard more about the hardships of life in the West Bank. We stopped by the local hotel to see painting created by Lucy Janjigian, a member of the Sunnyvale Presbyterian Church and a dear friend to many of us this pilgrimage.

Cincinnati folks at the brewery

We headed to Jericho and took a quick detour to look at the traditional location of Jesus’ 40 days of testing in the wilderness.
Finally, we made it to our hotel in Jericho. The Oasis is just that – a lovely place of rest and relaxation in the middle of the desert.

Another full day. What is in store for tomorrow?

Things We Will Miss in Galilee

Of course, there are many things we will miss about Galilee: the sites where Jesus taught and performed miracles. But there are other things that we will miss about Galilee:

"The bird's 'morning chorus' accompanying the sunrise over the Sea of Galilee. "
– Cherie and Don

"I will miss this morning greeting . . . " – Beth

"I will always remember we saw the same sunrise as Jesus
 and I will carry that thought with me forever." – Ginna

The earth brought forth vegetation: plants yielding seed of every kind, and trees of every kind bearing fruit with the seed in it. And God saw that is was good. Genesis 1:12.  

"What I will miss is the Galilee region: the beauty of nature - it draws me to the land." 
– Bethann

"I am going to miss the serenity and deep ageless peace of Galilee." – Jenny

 “What I will miss about Galilee: I will miss the beautiful sunrises, of course, but most of all I miss feeling the presence of Christ there. Hearing familiar Bible stories in such a powerful place is a game changer. It's so moving and goes so deep into my soul. Reading the Bible will be a different experience now. Or at least I hope it will be. I was most moved at the Church of the Primacy of Peter where Jesus appeared after his resurrection to the disciples who were fishing. When Rami talked about Jesus asking Peter "Do you love me?" 3 times I was overcome. I hope I can tap into that feeling often." – Susie

"I loved the Baptist Hymnal songs we sang in Nazareth 

and the chocolate croissants for breakfast in Galilee. 

Sweet memories were made."

 – Cheryl 

"Shopping"

"Swimming in the Sea of Galilee"

"Things I will miss-fellow pilgrims" -- Tari

"the unexpected"
translation:  Why Not?

"New Friends"

"Inspiring Speakers"

"Bora, Bora"